LOME, TOGO, WEST AFRICA

LOME, TOGO, WEST AFRICA – AUGUST 30, 2006

At dawn of August 30th, Lome pilots advised us to proceed first at anchorage. The anchor party was suddenly awakened by a call from the bridge. I immediately went to the dressing room, wore my cover all and picked up my torch. We rushed to the forward station and dropped the anchor. Just a few minutes after the anchor was dropped, Captain ordered to heave up the anchor again as the pilot notified to board at 5 in the morning. We rigged the pilot ladder for the approaching pilot boat.

The ship passed by the breakwater, assisted by two tug boats for docking alongside. There were few ships docked at the container terminal, mostly container ships of Maersk line and Safmarine came all the way from Europe. When finally cleared by port authorities, cargo holds were opened and unloading operations began. At around 3 in the afternoon, shouting and chasing at the pier caught our attention. Stevedores piling bagged rice on trucks started to steal and keep it anywhere at the pier. Some of them dived into the water and carried half sack of rice. On board, Captain alerted all crew to keep the unloading operations normal. There have been security guards assigned on board to safeguard the cargo as per consignee’s request. However, the security guards themselves are in connivance with the stevedores who steal rice in bags. Due to existing situation, Captain requested to the agent for private security watchmen. There were six security watchmen exclusively assigned to safeguard the ship and it properties, changing shift day and night. Though there have been security watchmen, we were not exempted from our security duties.

The unloading operations is only at daytime from 7am to 5 pm. Port securities have found out that at night time, cargo pilferage is very rampant. Some people board their banca and hide underneath the pier, while others disguised as stevedores, unidentified and finally steal rice in the end. We were amazed of the scenes that we have seen. Thieves battered by stick, the chasing after them, the diving into the water with sack of rice, and the punching, kicking, and smashing when caught by security guards.

At dusk when discharging operations stop, stevedores leaving the cargo holds are inspected one by one by security guards. Rice in small quantities has been confiscated. Others were caught with packed rice in their bags and pockets. One stevedore had been seized with rice wrapped by masking tape into his body and legs. He looked like an elephant and a suicide bomber at the same time carrying full loads. All of them did not escape the strict inspections of security watchmen safeguarding the cargo. They have collected 6 sacks of rice at day’s end containing 50 kilos each. However, the security guards took the rice in their homes.

When the crowds fade away and loaded trucks left before nighttime, our attention was caught by dock workers who started collecting rice on the ground. Rice mixed with pebbles and sand was put into plastic bags. An older man exposed the rice into the wind to separate the sand from the rice. Extreme hunger and food crisis in Africa, I concluded. In our country, rice on the ground is only feed to chicken and fowls. How blessed the Filipinos I thought. I recalled the line of the song “We are the world” sung by USA for Africa which goes like this, “There are people dying and its time to lend a hand”. Maybe that’s the reason why we were called to Africa to bring tons of food for Africans.

The daily unloading operations continued. Meanwhile, at the gangway, my shipmates have been very busy negotiating business with Togo businessmen. Imported shoes, perfumes, watches, DVD’s, clothing, and wine imported from Europe were offered half the original price. Those items were brought by container ships coming daily in and out from Europe. Other items are negotiable at lowest price. They also accept barter for soap, noodles, and coca cola.

After five days at Lome port, the unloading was completed. At 3 in the afternoon, the crew conducted stowaway search in every ships compartment. The pilot was posted to board at 5 pm. We’ve waited for two hours but re-scheduled again to 7 pm coz he would maneuver first the container vessel waiting outside the breakwater. The waiting has reached at midnight. Captain and my senior officers complained about the system of Lome Port authorities. At last, we left Lome, Togo after midnight and took a nap after the undocking maneuvers. After five hours of navigation, we’ve traveled approximately 75 nautical miles to our last unloading port, a neighbor country of Togo, the Republic of Benin, also in West Africa. We navigated to the anchorage area of Cotonou, Benin; dropped anchor as Beninoise Port Authority advised us.

IN THE CRUEL SEAS AND FRIGID WATERS OF SOUTH ATLANTIC

IN THE CRUEL SEAS AND FRIGID WATERS OF SOUTH ATLANTIC
AUGUST 20,2006

The latitude 40 degrees south had been referred by navigators as “roaring forties”. Ships regardless of size are affected by sea disturbances, violent winds,
rough seas, merging ocean currents, and cold sea temperature. Our ship being near 40 degrees latitude experienced combined motions such as rolling, yawing, surging, and pitching at the same time. We have suffered sleepless nights. When I lie in my cabin, my body goes through with the ships rolling motion. There was a time I fell out of bed.

A few miles away from the Cape of Good Hope off southeastern Africa, we altered course 330 degrees and sailed northwest. The combined ships movement became moderate when we changed our heading. The ship has gained speed again due to Benguela current that flows northwesterly, a current favorable to our destination in West Africa.

DURBAN,SOUTH AFRICA

DURBAN, SOUTH AFRICA- AUGUST 19, 2006

In the morning of August 19th, Captain ordered to prepare necessary equipments for helicopter pilot as boarding time was at noon of the same day. When arrangements were done, we laid out again mooring ropes for berthing and remained on standby after the lunch break. Then, the harbor pilot came and descended from the helicopter lowered with a safety harness fastened. At forward, we set our eyes to white sandy beaches and high rise buildings along the coast of Durban.

Durban, a city in eastern South Africa, in KwaZulu-Natal Province, on the Indian Ocean near Pietermaritzburg. Durban is the largest city in KwaZulu-Natal and is well served by rail links and has an international airport. Port Natal, as the city was first known, was only accessible to small craft until the late 19th century, when a protective sea wall and pier were built to form a channel entrance with an average depth of 11 to 12 m (35 to 40 ft). It is now the biggest port on the African continent. Among the industrial establishments are oil refineries, machine works, and railway repair shops. There is also a whaling station, and soap, paint, and fertilizer factories. Principal exports are coal, manganese; chromite, grain, wool, and sugar.The city is South Africa’s leading beach resort with all-year bathing and is also noted for its gardens.

Durban was founded as a township on the site of Port Natal by British settlers in 1835, and was named after Sir Benjamin D’Urban, then governor of Cape Colony. It grew rapidly in the 1890s following the completion of the railway link to the Witwatersrand goldfields. Many of the inhabitants are of South Asian background. Like many cities in South Africa, Durban has been the site of ethnic and political violence during that country’s transition to majority rule.

The ship slowly made her way to the harbor. We gave mooring lines to the line men on boat. The headline rope I was assigned to let go suddenly slipped away from the Panama lead and I was helpless to control because of too heavy enough as it submerged into the water. To stop the continuous flow of rope, I knelt over it with my body weight and grabbed the remaining. It was too late. The rope end already below the water. The Chief Mate rage in anger coz the line men couldn’t find the submerged rope. With the help of Bosun and OS buddies, we slowly pulled the not-just-an-ordinary-heavy ropes until its end appeared and hanged 1 meter above the water. They blamed me on that day for the said failure. I just said to myself ‘charge to experience’. The lines have been picked up by line men one by one and secured into the wharf.

At 2 pm, the ship was on its position. We secured all restricted areas on board coz Durban, South Africa has a high incident of stowaway cases according to reports. We remained on standby until port authorities cleared the ship. After clearing, trucks of ships provisions arrived composed of meat, fishes, veggies, fruits, dry stores, and bonded stores which composed of cases of sofdrinks and beer and cartoons of cigar. Then at 4 pm, start of my duty again. Half past four, bunkering equipments arrived. The engine department has been notified and they prepared the necessary arrangements for this critical shipboard operation called bunkering, also known as refueling. We the deck crew on duty also remained vigilant especially on the implementation of shipboard oil pollution emergency plans to avoid environmental pollution and the heavy fines it would incur. It was 5 in the afternoon when pumping in of oil started. We patrolled around deck, ensuring all mooring lines are not slack make the ship immovable. We also plugged scuppers into deck drainage to prevent escape of oil overboard in case of accidental spillage. Ten in the evening, the bunkering was completed. The ship was scheduled to sail by midnight. Before departure, all crew members conducted stowaway search in every ship’s compartment and void space, the accommodation deck and engine room as well. No stowaways had been discovered. Durban port authority strictly implemented the International Ship and Port Facility Security Code.

The harbor pilot boarded at midnight. He ordered to single up the lines then finally let go all lines from the pier. All lines were cast off, however our Chief Mate raced against time, up three lines simultaneously at full speed. I was assigned to arrange the ropes however one of the ropes entangled due to fast rotation of the mooring drum. The Chief Mate got mad at me again. I only laugh at myself, another lesson. He wanted us to secure everything forward coz outside the Durban harbor, strong winds began to blow and the sea suddenly became rough. It was already 1 in the early morning when we retreated from forward station. We spent an hour for early breakfast and slept.

When we left Durban, South Africa, ship’s speed increased gradually from 12.8 to 15 nautical miles per hour. A favorable current called Agulhas current which flows southwest off African continent helped to gain additional speed. However, sea disturbances began battering our ship due to merging waters of the Indian Ocean and Atlantic Ocean south of the African land mass. Course has been adjusted to remain on track up to our next port of destination in Lome, Republic of Togo, and Western Africa.

LANDFALL IN THE DARK CONTINENT-"AFRICA"

LANDFALL IN THE DARK CONTINENT- “AFRICA”

MAPUTO, MOZAMBIQUE- AUGUST 15, 2006

A cold freezing wind awakened our senses upon arrival at Maputo pilot station. We, the anchor party have been summoned at 1 in the early morning to prepare for anchoring as advised by Maputo pilots. Before going out, we sprayed mosquito repellent lotion. Malaria cases are prevalent in African countries. We need to have preventive measures when exposed to outside surroundings. Captain also ensured the validity of yellow fever vaccination of each crew as required for the maritime declaration of health and quarantine. Yellow fever is also endemic disease in Africa. Dengue fever and cholera cases have also been reported.

When the anchor was dropped at the pilot station, anti- piracy watch has been implemented again. We remained alert until dawn roving around the ship and maintained security watch. Meanwhile, Maputo pilots notified us via VHF radio for the scheduled berthing time which was 4 in the afternoon. In consideration for the highest level of high tide and the ship’s draft, the submerged portion of the ship. After the anti- piracy watch, we took a nap then made necessary preparations for berthing such as lying out of mooring ropes and rigging of pilot ladder.

The pilot boarded at 4 pm and maneuvered the ship to the pier. The first line ashore was made fast by the line men to the pier. Finally the ship was in her position after all mooring ropes have been cast on. The port officials boarded and cleared the vessel. Cargo holds have been opened at the same time for surveyors and consignee. Stevedores, crane operators and tally men boarded then the unloading operations began.

On the next day after my duty, a ship chandler named Senora Johanna came on board. She gave the list of consumable goods to Captain and Chief cook for our ships provision. I asked her if I could have a ride in her car to the city coz I need to buy personal things for daily use. She approved, my shipmate and I went with her.

For the very first time since we embarked in China, I have set foot on land, in the Dark Continent called “Africa”. We drove around the city streets of Maputo. The buildings are very old. It has also a fortified structure with canons just like Intramuros. It was used to be a fortress of the Portuguese navy in the 15th century. Mozambique is a former colony of Portugal. The official language is Portuguese, English is also spoken. Senora Johanna dropped us at a supermarket and after an hour she picked us up on her way to the ship. I gave her five dollars for the fare. My mates asked me about the situation outside. After their work, it was their turn to discover the city of Maputo. They went shopping, ate in a Chinese restaurant, and made telephone calls.

Maputo, formerly Lourenço Marques, city in south-eastern Mozambique, capital and largest community of the country, located on Delagoa Bay (an arm of the Indian Ocean). Maputo’s protected deep-water harbour serves as Mozambique’s main port and as an important outlet for the landlocked countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe. Exports include cotton, coal, sugar, sisal, and processed food. The city’s manufacturing industries produce refined petroleum, building materials, clothing, footwear, and food products. An old Portuguese fortress (1787) and the ultra-modern Mousinho de Albuquerque Square are both well-known landmarks. In the city are Eduardo Mondlane University (1962), the Museum of Natural History, and the National Library. Tourists are attracted by the fine sandy beaches here.

Maputo was founded in the late 18th century in a region visited (1544) by the Portuguese trader Lourenço Marques, after whom it was named until 1976. It replaced Moçambique as the colonial capital of Portuguese East Africa in 1907 and maintained this position when the country achieved independence in 1975.

18th of August at noon, discharging operations were completed. In our three and a half days of stay at Maputo, no problems we’ve encountered with regards to ship security and unloading operations. Thanks for disciplined policy and implementation of security by port authorities. We left Maputo at 1 in the afternoon and sailed south bound for refueling and ship’s provisions to pick up in Durban, South Africa.

IN THE MIDST OF INDIAN OCEAN

IN THE MIDST OF INDIAN OCEAN- AUGUST 8, 2006

In a passage plan to Africa, our charterer and company in Japan advised us to avoid sailing within territorial waters of Somalia in Northeastern Africa due to reports of armed robbery and piracy in Somali waters. The International Maritime Bureau has issued a warning to all merchant vessels to clear 200 nautical miles from the coastline of the said country. Incidents have been reported that Somali pirates often seajack ships through their high-speed crafts brandishing their Kalashnikovs and high caliber fire arms. Instead of sailing south of Sri Lanka to the north of Madagascar, an alternative route has been considered. From Malacca, Indonesia we sailed southwest down to southern Madagascar island.

Southwest monsoon affected our voyage in the Indian Ocean. Strong wind, daily rain showers, and rough sea influenced our navigation. Sometimes the sun appear and we do maintenance work such as painting, greasing of ships equipment to caught up maintenance work we missed during one month stay in Thailand. After the day’s work, I would spend my time at the bridge or wheelhouse from six to ten in the evening for the advancement of my seafaring profession. My senior officers have always been challenging me to learn and gain more knowledge in order to practice my license as Third Mate in due time. I’ve always been thankful for their support, motivation, encouragement and willingness to impart their knowledge in the years of their seafaring career.

In reference to our continuous ship’s position monitoring, the island of Reunion was sighted a few miles on our starboard side. The south equatorial current aided additional speed ahead. Several days more, the island of Madagascar was located. A reckon that the ship is advancing to East Africa, port of destination; Maputo, Mozambique.