Wednesday, August 30, 2006

LOME, TOGO, WEST AFRICA

LOME, TOGO, WEST AFRICA – AUGUST 30, 2006

At dawn of August 30th, Lome pilots advised us to proceed first at anchorage. The anchor party was suddenly awakened by a call from the bridge. I immediately went to the dressing room, wore my cover all and picked up my torch. We rushed to the forward station and dropped the anchor. Just a few minutes after the anchor was dropped, Captain ordered to heave up the anchor again as the pilot notified to board at 5 in the morning. We rigged the pilot ladder for the approaching pilot boat.

The ship passed by the breakwater, assisted by two tug boats for docking alongside. There were few ships docked at the container terminal, mostly container ships of Maersk line and Safmarine came all the way from Europe. When finally cleared by port authorities, cargo holds were opened and unloading operations began. At around 3 in the afternoon, shouting and chasing at the pier caught our attention. Stevedores piling bagged rice on trucks started to steal and keep it anywhere at the pier. Some of them dived into the water and carried half sack of rice. On board, Captain alerted all crew to keep the unloading operations normal. There have been security guards assigned on board to safeguard the cargo as per consignee’s request. However, the security guards themselves are in connivance with the stevedores who steal rice in bags. Due to existing situation, Captain requested to the agent for private security watchmen. There were six security watchmen exclusively assigned to safeguard the ship and it properties, changing shift day and night. Though there have been security watchmen, we were not exempted from our security duties.

The unloading operations is only at daytime from 7am to 5 pm. Port securities have found out that at night time, cargo pilferage is very rampant. Some people board their banca and hide underneath the pier, while others disguised as stevedores, unidentified and finally steal rice in the end. We were amazed of the scenes that we have seen. Thieves battered by stick, the chasing after them, the diving into the water with sack of rice, and the punching, kicking, and smashing when caught by security guards.

At dusk when discharging operations stop, stevedores leaving the cargo holds are inspected one by one by security guards. Rice in small quantities has been confiscated. Others were caught with packed rice in their bags and pockets. One stevedore had been seized with rice wrapped by masking tape into his body and legs. He looked like an elephant and a suicide bomber at the same time carrying full loads. All of them did not escape the strict inspections of security watchmen safeguarding the cargo. They have collected 6 sacks of rice at day’s end containing 50 kilos each. However, the security guards took the rice in their homes.

When the crowds fade away and loaded trucks left before nighttime, our attention was caught by dock workers who started collecting rice on the ground. Rice mixed with pebbles and sand was put into plastic bags. An older man exposed the rice into the wind to separate the sand from the rice. Extreme hunger and food crisis in Africa, I concluded. In our country, rice on the ground is only feed to chicken and fowls. How blessed the Filipinos I thought. I recalled the line of the song “We are the world” sung by USA for Africa which goes like this, “There are people dying and its time to lend a hand”. Maybe that’s the reason why we were called to Africa to bring tons of food for Africans.

The daily unloading operations continued. Meanwhile, at the gangway, my shipmates have been very busy negotiating business with Togo businessmen. Imported shoes, perfumes, watches, DVD’s, clothing, and wine imported from Europe were offered half the original price. Those items were brought by container ships coming daily in and out from Europe. Other items are negotiable at lowest price. They also accept barter for soap, noodles, and coca cola.

After five days at Lome port, the unloading was completed. At 3 in the afternoon, the crew conducted stowaway search in every ships compartment. The pilot was posted to board at 5 pm. We’ve waited for two hours but re-scheduled again to 7 pm coz he would maneuver first the container vessel waiting outside the breakwater. The waiting has reached at midnight. Captain and my senior officers complained about the system of Lome Port authorities. At last, we left Lome, Togo after midnight and took a nap after the undocking maneuvers. After five hours of navigation, we’ve traveled approximately 75 nautical miles to our last unloading port, a neighbor country of Togo, the Republic of Benin, also in West Africa. We navigated to the anchorage area of Cotonou, Benin; dropped anchor as Beninoise Port Authority advised us.